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飚仔·晓天·情塚

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与加纳的第一次亲密接触——加纳记忆(一) The First Intimate Contact with Ghana  

2013-01-05 21:32:05|  分类: 加纳记忆 |  标签: |举报 |字号 订阅

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       Surprises--- Landing on Ghana - 19515619 - ETERNAL PEACE

    非洲,人类的发源之地,神秘莫测,充满诱惑,却又遥不可及。总是梦想着有这么一天,能登上这片真正的故土,追根溯源,寻找祖先生活的节奏和迁徙的步履。因此,当一个去加纳工作的机会从天而降时,便毫不犹豫地收拾行囊,像个虔诚的信徒一样直奔这片圣地。

临出发前,通过网络对加纳的概况进行了初步了解。这是一个位于北纬7o狭长热带国家,国土面积很小,却举世闻名,因为蜚声国际政坛的原联合国秘书长科菲·安南就出生在这里的库马西省。加纳政局稳定,与中国邦交友好,且气候宜人,人民友善,是一个适于居住的好地方。尽管如此,心中还是有些忐忑,毕竟这些都是道听途说,它到底是什么样子?人们容易相处吗?能适应那里的热带气候吗?所有这些都是那么不确定,无法预知。无论怎样,由来已久的梦想即将实现,退堂鼓是绝对不会打的。就在这种复杂纠结的心境下,登上了去往加纳的飞机。可能是过于激动,整个旅程心情几乎从未平静过。在上颠下簸地飞行了两天之后,终于来到了这个完全陌生的国度。



啊,加纳,我来了!啊,非洲,我来了!


       与加纳的第一次亲密接触  The First Intimate Contact with Ghana - 飚 - 飚 
  

沿飞机舷梯而下,迎面袭来一股奇特的新鲜空气。当时是下午,空气暖洋洋的,但一点也不干燥,非常舒爽。这里的空气没有任何化学气体的味道,纯净得可以将肺泡全部打开,尽情呼吸,酣畅淋漓。抬头仰望,赤道的骄阳是如此耀眼,那么有穿透力,直接射入你的皮肤,感觉痒痒的。一部分是由于时差,一部分是由于热带气候,让人感觉有些头重脚轻,身体好像飘浮在空中。哦,赤道的气候将我灌得醉醺醺的。

第一次和非洲亲密接触,完全出乎意料。刚下飞机,就吃了一惊。一个黑人男子过来用英语向我们打招呼,可我完全听不懂他在说什么。作为翻译听不懂英语,真是令人尴尬之极。幸运的是,同行的工程师为我解了围,他曾在巴基斯坦和以色列工作过,常和操不同口音的人打交道。加纳的英语发音绝对独特,超出当时我的理解能力,尽管以前和许多外国人工作过,如德国人、澳大利亚人和意大利人等。结果,他是公司派来接我们的司机。

到了出关口,又吃了一惊。在那儿,一位个子很高、身材丰满的黑人女士让我打开行李例行检查。这位女士的英语发音还不错,至少能勉强听懂。她一边检查我的随身物品,一边发问,并提出要我送她礼物。这个我早有准备,动身之前特意购买了一些小盒清凉油——母亲告诉我这么做的,她的朋友20多年前援非时就带这个作为礼物。遗憾的是,当我满心欢喜地拿出礼物时,看到的却是一张失望的面孔。她尴尬地咧嘴一笑,拇指和食指摩擦着,暗示我她想要什么。我当然知道她的意思,这个手势是世界通用语,代表“金钱”。当时我惊呆了,尽管自诩八面玲珑,可在国内毕竟没遇到过这种情况,无法立即做出反应。这也有点太直接了,感觉像打劫,这里可是海关,他们怎敢直接要钱!然而,这是一个陌生的国度,不想惹麻烦,于是说没有美元,只有人民币,在这里不能用。她很不情愿地收下清凉油,让我出关了。后来得知,现在这些海关人员直接要钱作为小费已是家常便饭,一点也不奇怪,没有人为此责备他们。同事们知道后,笑我太过时了,都什么时代了还送清凉油!汗颜!


与加纳的第一次亲密接触  The First Intimate Contact with Ghana - 飚 - 飚

无论如何,最终走出了关口,算是正式踏上了加纳的土地,踏上了非洲的土地。与加纳同事简单聊了几句后,我们驱车直奔公司总部。

在去公司总部的路上,赤道落日又让我吃了一惊。差几分6点的时候,太阳还端端正正地挂在地平线上,可才几分钟功夫就突然消失得无影无踪。想当然地以为地处赤道附近,落日应该迟于高纬度地区,可是实际情况截然相反,而且天黑的速度出奇得快,没有过渡,突然就黑了,就像造物主在搞恶作剧,用披风突然将太阳遮住一样。问同事原由,没有得到确切的答案。当时猜测可能因为地球是圆的,太阳靠近赤道,所以比高纬度地区日落要快。以前所学的地理知识早已就着饭吃了。

    几经辗转,终于到了总部!先和同事认识一下,然后简单吃了点粥,草草洗漱,很快便酣然入睡,这两天太累了。这是我到加纳的第一天,没有想象中的惊喜连连,但却是惊奇不断,我想更多的惊奇一定在等着我。期待中!



 The First Intimate Contact with Ghana--The Reminicences of Ghana











    It was long time ago when I was so unhappy in China due to some personal reasons. When a chance came to me to work in Ghana as a translator, I resolutely packed my luggage to escape the reality though nobody from my family and friends agreed with my decision. 
        I had long been fasinated by this ancient continent, so mysterious and exotic,and so many times I dreamed of landing on its earth. Now my dream had eventually come true, so I could bearly calm down during the whole flight. What did it look like? Were the peple friendly? Everything was so uncertain and unpridictable. 
After two days ups and downs in the air, I finally found myself in the totally unfamiliar country.

    My first intimate contact with Africa was really out of my expectation. When I was off the plane, I got my first surprise. A black man greeted us with a sort of English which was utterly unintelligible to me. I was disdressfully awkward because as a translator I even could not understand English! Luckily my engineer colleague got me out of this enbarrassing situation. He had worked in Pakistan and Israel and had a lot of experiences dealing with different accents. Ghanaian English was really unique in pronunciation which was beyond my comprehension at the moment even though I had worked with many foreigners from Germany, Australia, and Italy. It turned out that the company sent the guy to pick us up.

与加纳的第一次亲密接触  The First Intimate Contact with Ghana - 飚 - 飚

   The second surprise came to me when I reached the check-out point, where a very tall and plump lady asked me to open my luggage. As she checked my belongings she asked me to give her some presents which I had already prepared before I left China--some small boxes of cooling oil--my mother told me to bring some because some of her friends who went to Africa more than 20 years ago took them as presents. Obviously the lady was unhappy when I took out the present, she said that was not good and gestured me with her fingers what she really wanted, rubbing her thumb and point finger. Of course I understood her meaning, it was a universal sign to indicate “money”. I was too shocked to respond immediately, it was too direct just like robbing! Here was the customers office, how dare she ask for money! But it was in another country, I didn't want trouble, so I said that I didn't have US dollars but only Chinese Yuan which could not be used here. Reluctantly she took my oil and let me go. I was told later that nowadays it was no strange that these  officers asked directly for money as tips and nobody blamed them for doing so.

     Walking out of the arrival terminal, I was greeted by strangly fresh air. It was afternoon, the air was a little bit warm, not very dry but quite fresh without any chemical odors, you can just inhale your whole lungs full to your heart's content. Oh, the tropical sun was so bright and penetrating, it directly emited its beam into my skin to make me feel itching. Maybe partly because of the time different, partly beacuse of the tropical weather, both my head and feet became very light, feeling like floating in the air----I was intoxicated by this tropical weather. Talking briefly with the Ghana colleague, we headed directly to the headquarters.     

    The last surprise running into me was the tropical sunset. It was just 5:30 when the sun was right above the horizon, suddenly it disappeared within a few minutes. I had though it was tropic so the day must be longer and asked my colleague the reason but without a definite answer. I guessed that it might because the earth is round and the sun is nearer the tropic of the earth so it will set quick than in higher latitude regions. My geological knowledge had deserted me for long time.        

    Eventually we reached our headquarters. Having had some porridge, I washed myself quickly and then went fast asleep. This was the first day in Ghana, wihich was not so excited as I had imagined, but surely I was surprised and many more surprises must await me ahead.

        

        
与加纳的第一次亲密接触  The First Intimate Contact with Ghana - 飚 - 飚
                  
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